The mud cloth : The Art of a Sacred Fabric, Imbued with Earth and Time
Each piece of
The process begins with the harvesting of Siiga leaves (in the Moré language) or ngálama (in Bambara), also known by the scientific name Anogeissus leiocarpus. The leaves are dried, pounded, and then infused in water at room temperature for 24 hours to extract a juice rich in iron, which gives it a pale yellow hue.
The raw cotton piece is then immersed in this infusion.This bath is renewed up to three times to achieve a deep and uniform yellow color, before the fabric is dried in the sun.
The next step consists of fermenting iron-rich clay, mixed with millet bran, in an earthen vat buried for seven days. This fermented clay is then hand-applied to the fabric, using sticks and/or stencils to create patterns. Each design is a personal expression of the artisan, often inspired by regional or family symbols, giving the
This step leaves a strong odor on the
Once the shapes are drawn with the fermented clay, a natural chemical reaction allows the coloration of all areas touched by the clay (the shades depend on the ingredients added to the clay: ash, dyes, etc.).When the clay is dry, the fabric is thoroughly washed with soapy water, hence the name "mudcloth" (mud fabric used by Anglo-Saxons), to remove the fermented clay and its strong odor.
When the clay dries, a natural chemical reaction permanently impregnates the fabric where the clay has been applied. The shades vary depending on the ingredients added—ash, plants, or other natural elements—and give the fabric an inimitable chromatic richness. Once the patterns are set, the fabric is carefully washed to remove the clay and its characteristic odors, purifying it while revealing its iconic patterns.
Each piece of
